K1300S Clutch Fine Adjustment

[955i]

Lee, I just saw a post you made on the BMW/MOA site in January of 2025 re: clutch adjustment. It is informative, but it looks daunting. I think I'll leave mine alone for now.

[Lee]

Here's the link. I don't know if I was right or wrong

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/threads/k1...stment.101651/

[cabnfvr]

Lee, you are absolutely correct. "That knob does not change the engagement point. It's more of a comfort adjustment." And the K1200S / K1300S does have those adjusters.

Also, the guy on the MOA site that goes into photo details on how to adjust the ball stud, is wrongo. Adjusting that part of the lever (assuming you get past BMW's overzealous use of red Loctite) does nothing for the engagement point. It will add a lot of slop to the lever, or remove all play and damage the clutch. I'd stay away from adjusting the ball stud.

FWIW, if it's a K1300S or 1969 mach 1 Mustang I probably know the answer but I went downstairs and took a photo anyway.

[Lee]

Thanks Tim

[955i]

AhHA! Thanks, guys. You're the best. Jargon put on some fancy after-market levers. I like them fine. They have 5 or 6 clickable settings. I am on the most extreme one and wondered if there was any further adjustment possible. I am a "sufficer" and will leave "well enough" alone.

[beech]

The real clutch lever engagement placement is something BMW did not intend you to mess with. But you can and it can make a huge difference. Here is a write up on how to do it. Any questions email me and I'll help. <snipesb@cnw.com> Tricks are high quality 2mm allen, the ones on 1/4" drive units from Europe are the best. and a cheap one to heat and insert into the mentioned set screw to destroy the red loctite bmw used.
This can be adjusted, the clutch lever engagement to released distance to normal location. Moving the push pin with the ball end attached to the lever is the object. Note
When you pull the lever back it pivots and pushes in a small pin with a rounded tip into the master cylinder and the piston in there. This is normally not adjusted but in your case I think you would benefit from adjusting it. You undo the 8mm nyloc nut under the lever pivot pin. Push then pull out the pin. Now be VERY careful and pull the lever directly out. There is a micro switch in there the lever triggers and if you bend its sensing lever your in trouble. Be gentle. Now the lever is in your hand and you can see all this. The pin I have been talking about has a threaded stub in the rotating drive bushing. But it has a locking allen screw that is very tight. I mean tight. You need to dig out all the marking paint in this allen screw socket hole so the allen driver can bottom out. Otherwise you will, and I mean will, strip the internal hex. I put heat to a bit of wire to melt the paint to dig it out. I also put heat to the tip of a small bolt and hold the bolt against the top of the allen screw to loosen any loctite. Your allen tool has to fit perfectly. It is 2.5mm. I have both an L wrench and a 1/4" drive bit kit with a 2.5mm hex tip, the bit kit is more accurate that the "L" wrench. Remember it has to fit to the bottom. Loosen the set screw a turn. The push pin with the rounded end also is 1.5mm in its base end (opposite from the round tip. In your case you want more clutch action than you are currently getting so turn the main pin clockwise to extend the pin. I suggest 1 1/2 turns to start with . Major changes are not good and there is a limit before things go wrong. Grease the pin shaft and tip, and the pivot for the pin and the bolt for the lever. Now take a look in the purch were the lever goes with a light and you will see the trigger lever for the switch. This is something you don't want to mess up. Carefully just insert the finger lever in until the main bolt hole lines up with the frame of the perch and insert the bolt. Tight up but don't crush the perch frame. This should help. I had a similar problem but just the opposite, the clutch lever was working too far out. In my case I shortened the pin length. A soldering pencil with a pointed tip could be used to melt the loctite in the lock screw.