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1200 Mile Weekend

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    1200 Mile Weekend

    Part One

    This past weekend, I had an opportunity to ride with some locals who had loosely organized a ride & camp weekend in North Texas & a portion of Oklahoma. I had never met any of these guys but it gave me a chance to ride my freshly self serviced R1150GS & do some camping off the bike, which is always fun.

    I spent about 10 days prior doing general maintenance stuff & adding some tasteful farkles and it was a perfect opportunity to get away for a few days. As a maintenance & farklizing side note, it goes as follows... new front & rear Galfer SS brake lines, brake bleed, new brake pads, oil/oil filter change, final drive & gear oil change, LED headlight/turn signal conversion, Kisan tailBlazer module (compliments Pirate), charcoal cannisterectomy, Rugged Roads oil cooler guard & accessory plate (for a fuse block), extensive wiring re-wrap, Heed crash bars, a set of Shinko 705's & a set of Pivot Pegz foot pegs... and I still have a few things left to do.

    The organizer's plan, for those that wanted to get an early start, was to meet at his ranch near Possum Kingdom Lake (3000 acres!) Thursday afternoon and ride the next day as a group to our day's end destination, Palo Duro Canyon State Park. Saturday's destination was kinda up in the air but the thought was we would end up at Caprock Canyons State Park. Another objective for the ride, was to get on as much dirt as we could during our travels, as the ride was also billed as a dual sport ride, big heavy pigs accepted. In addition, we would seek out a few sites that had to do with early Texas history. The weather looked iffy for Saturday night with rain in the forecast, but other than that, it was all systems go!

    Since I couldn't get away until Friday, I would have to meet the other riders in Turkey, TX, around noon, which meant I had to leave the house at 6am. When I opened the garage door to leave, it was still dark & I was greeted with thick, heavy fog... WTF? I can't remember seeing that much fog around here, ever. It was super thick & I rode through it for 70 miles, all the way to Decatur. Holy crap! Good thing I had the new LED headlights installed versus the crappy OEM headlight, it made a HUGE difference.

    I made it to Turkey right about noon & couldn't find anybody on a bike, so I assumed I had missed everyone. Turkey is pretty much a blip on the map & it would be nearly impossible not to find other motorcyclists had they been there, so I decided to gas up after a quick bite to eat & make the ride to Palo Duro on my own. Next to the gas station/c-store was a taco truck, so I asked the clerk what she thought about the food there. "Oh, it's great! Several of the folks that work here love it!". Cool... as I sat there eating what was probably the absolute worst pork tamale I've ever tried to eat, followed by a near dry heave, on-the-verge of a vomit inducing beef taco, here comes a group of riders into the parking lot. Good thing I hung around cause these were the guys I was suppose to hook up with... right on! As for the food truck sustenance, I was surprised the rolling canteen cuisine was so bad, because the gal running it & doing all the cooking, was a little old Mexican lady so I figure that clerk knew what she was talking about & it'd be some good chow. Guess you really can't judge a book by its cover or a cook by their kitchen.


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    Welcome to Turkey, TX


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    Turkey, TX Rush Hour

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    My Big Girl Posing With Bob Wills & His Texas Playboys Tour Bus


    After I'd met all the other riders & we'd exchanged pleasantries, they decided to eat before we made our way to Palo Duro. Palo Duro is in the Texas Panhandle region and has supported human activity for over 12,000 years. It, like Big Bend, is a pretty special place and like Big Bend, it's in the middle of freaking nowhere! The Canyon is 120 miles long, 20 miles wide in some parts, has a maximim depth of 800 feet in some places and its elevation at the rim is 3500 feet. In other words, it's a big hole in the ground & the only other hole that's bigger in the U.S. is the Grand Canyon.

    After lunch, we all saddled up & took off for Palo Duro. A couple of the guys leading the way were using their GPS' to find dirt roads and some of them were pretty remote. Up till then, I hadn't had the GS on much dirt since I got it, other than gravel, so when we hit some deep sand in a few spots, I had more than a few pucker moments. But I made it without dumping the bike and it was fun to see how I would do. Not sure about the new model GS', but with my model year, the factory didn't add a steering damper, so when I'm riding it, it feels like a giant mountain bike with a motor. Maybe it was a good thing I spent all those years riding the mountain bike!

    We did a drive-by to Caprock Canyons State Park and rode through the park. Indian cultures (Native American) thrived in this area including the Comanche & Apaches with human activity here going back as far as 10,000 -12,000 years ago with the early Paleondian Folsom peoples, who themselves hunted the wooly mammoth & giant bison. The exposed geologic layers in the markdown to the Permian Age, formed about 250-280 million years ago, with each geologic age having a different color. The park is also home to a buffalo herd, prairie dogs, 175 species of birds, 14 species of lizards & 30 species of snakes. It's a pretty place...

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    ?We made it to Palo Duro late in the day but still had enough light on the subject to set up camp & cook dinner. I chose to bring one of my hammocks to hang as did a couple of others but everyone else were in tents. I was the only one who brought their own food and everyone else either went into town or brought a Subway with them. I prefer camp cooking because it helps keep your skills in check for when you get out in the woods, plus it's way cheaper & fun. I did chicken gumbo and cookpot cornbread to go with it. Over the years I've added baking to my meal prep & manage to get it right most of the time & tends to make meal time a little less boring.

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    Everyone Sets Up Camp & Claims Their Space


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    Home Sweet Home - Site 119

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    Cookpot Jalapeno Cornbread... mmmm!

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    Palo Duro Canyon State Park's Pet Texas Longhorn... About As Big As A Minivan!

    After dinner, the few of us who didn't ride into town, sat under one of the hammock tarps we strung up over the pad structure & shot the shit for a while. In no time at all, the stars disappeared, the skies turned dark & the rain moved in. It never really got raining hard but there was some pretty wicked lightning across the sky. During the next 20 minutes, we got quite an eyeful with a really good lightning show & heard 2-3 big BOOMS, the kind that make you jump just a bit because it sounds like it's 10 feet away. I was sleeping in my hammock under the tarp & it pretty much sprinkled for the next few hours. It's peaceful laying in the hammock listening to the rain hit the tarp as you're falling asleep.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by McFly; 04-22-2019, 11:08 PM.
    "Everybody knows you never go full retard". - Kirk Lazarus

    #2
    Part Two

    The next morning, we rode into the nearest town, Canyon, for breakfast and afterwards, a couple of the guys peeled off & went home. Soon we were underway & by noon, we made it to Borger, TX located in Hutchinson County in the middle of nowhere, but in the late 1800's, Borger & Hutchinson County were smack dab in the middle of the Texas Panhandle oil boom. In Borger is the Hutchinson County Historical Museum right on the little town square & since it was about time for a rest stop off the bike, we did a little tour. The museum featured early oil field equipment, historical pictures & articles highlighting all the boom activity during Hutchinson County's heyday.

    When oil was discovered in the early '20's, Borger went from a sleepy little 721 person town on the prairie, to a hustling, bustling Boomtown of over 14K, seemingly overnight. With that, came a period of lawlessness & in that time the new mayor had a sketchy relationship with Sheriff, "Two Gun Dick" Herwig, who led an organized crime ring that included brothels, bootlegging, dance halls & gambling houses. Robbery & murder were commonplace & often, people simply disappeared overnight, never to be heard from again. By the spring of '27, it got so bad the then Texas Gov. Dan Moody, sent a detachment of Texas Rangers to Borger to help restore law & order. The detachment included Texas Ranger, Captain Frank Horner, who 7 years later would track down & kill the infamous outlaw duo, Bonnie & Clyde. Things were going well until the Borger District Attorney was gunned down, after which, Gov. Moody declared "martial law" & sent the Texas Nat'l Guard to restore order. A little Texas history for you!


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    Main St. Borger, TX

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    Borger Birthday Parade

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    ?Life In The Oil Patch

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    After we'd had our fill of some Texas Panhandle history, we took off for another historical site, Adobe Walls. Adobe Walls was a small buffalo hunter's camp that was attacked by a band of 700-1200 Kiowa, Comanche, Arapaho & Cheyenne Indians in 1874. Chief Quanah Parker assembled the different tribes in an effort to stop the wholesale destruction of migrating herds of plains buffalo & the Indian's way of life. After 3 days of fighting, the Indians were defeated & a young buffalo hunter named Billy Dixon became a hero in defending the camp & went on to become an army scout. Just 3 months after becoming an army scout, he, another scout & 4 troopers with the 6th Calvary Regiment, were surrounded & attacked by a band of Kiowa & Comanche Indians while on patrol. The attack lasted 3 days and became known as the Battle of Buffalo Wallow & in the end, the men were able to hold off the Indians & survived the attack. It's worth noting that as a buffalo hunter, Billy Dixon was only 14 years old & told a story of a having ridden from Sante Fe, NM to Dodge City, KS & was never out of sight of a vast buffalo herd... this single herd stretched over 400 miles! It's almost unimaginable to think that buffalo once roamed the plains in such staggering numbers, only to be almost completely wiped out. Sad really but to see one in person, they're a pretty magnificent animal.

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    Adobe Walls Battleground

    Getting to & from Adobe Walls & Buffalo Wallow had us riding down gravel roads & even by today's standards, these sites are way off the beaten path. It would've been even more off the beaten path back in the mid-1800's... very remote. It is very easy to imagine this area being home to Native American Indians & buffalo herds by the millions roaming the plains.


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    Soon after all the sight seeing, we were in Oklahoma & wound up camping in the Black Kettle National Grassland. We found a little campground next to a small lake that was part of a wildlife refuge that was free to stay for the night. It was a pretty nice location and by the time it was time to turn in, the night sky was full of stars & the wind was blowing really hard. I hung my hammock earlier that evening between two pine trees and during the night, the wind caught the tarp a couple of times & pulled the stakes out of the ground because the ground was so soft under all the pine needles. So I'd have to get out of the hammock & put the stakes back in the ground only to repeat this effort in futility 2-3 more times. I finally decided to just take the tarp down & zip in the hammock top cover since it's windproof. So began the late night comedy... I walk to the bike to get my headlamp so I'd have both hands free to put on the top cover, only to realize I left the headlamp at home! Imagine trying to take down a tarp with the wind blowing about 20-25 mph flapping all over & at the same time, trying to see what you're doing with the flashlight from an iPhone. As it turned out, taking the tarp down was the easy part! Zipping the top cover onto the hammock proved to be quite a challenge. It was impossible to line up the zipper on each side of the hammock, while holding the iPhone in my hand, so I had to try & hold it on my mouth. And there's no way you can do that & tilt your head back to the right position & still see what you're doing. Meanwhile, the top cover is flapping all over the place making it even more difficult to get the zipper going. After about 20 minutes of screwing with it, I finally got it zipped in & could get back in the hammock & try to get some sleep. Good thing I keep my little titanium flask handy filled with my favorite hootch... I needed a few nips to calm down my frustration!

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    The next morning we were up early & would head back to Dallas. Our route would take us through the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge... wow what a place! I've read about it before but never had the chance to check it out, mainly due to it's remote location. There is bison herd of about 650 buffalo that is free to roam the entire Refuge area which is also a habitat for elk & wild turkey, all three of which have been reintroduced & were once native to this area. Other animals reintroduced to the area that were once native, are the River Otter, Burrowing Owl & the prairie dog. Really pretty area to ride through.

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    One member of our party, Zach, got a flat just as we got into the Wildlife Refuge, so we had to tend to that. I probably shouldn't have made fun of him because later in the day, I had a flat of my own.

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    After the ride through the Wildlife Refuge, it was time to make a beeline for home. Pretty uneventful, other than having a flat along the way. Turned out not to be a nail or anything like that, but it turned out the valve stem was rotten & I'm surprised it didn't fail sooner. It basically fell apart in my hand & lucky for me, one of the guys I was riding with had a spare.

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    After spending an hour or so fixing my flat, it was a mad dash for home. I made it all the way to Van Alstyne before it would rain on me, so the last 30 miles were wet ones. The Shinko 705's performed much better than I expected on the trip & I hope they hold up for a while.

    Even though my trip was kind of a whirlwind tour, I had fun, got to spend time on the GS, soaked up some Texas history & saw some cool sites. I have to admit, the GS is much more fun to ride than I expected, handles well for a big bike & has a fairly comfortable riding position. Not having a steering damper makes for some quick steering but is manageable. I will probably get rid of the stock exhaust system & replace it with slip on & Y header & replace the stock seat at some point, but for now I think it will do nicely.
    Last edited by McFly; 04-22-2019, 10:57 AM.
    "Everybody knows you never go full retard". - Kirk Lazarus

    Comment


      #3
      Fabulous report. Only wish the pictures show up.
      I wish I could go on a trip like this. I do sometimes on Uncle Sam's dime, but without a bike or "friends".
      Chattanooga, TN
      Certified Hooligan.
      2018 S1000XR, 2014 R1200GSAw, 2015 Husqvarna FE501S

      Comment


        #4
        Felt the sand under the tires and the tarp blowing away in the wind. Great report and a super bike. Thanks.
        Cut with a curse sharp as a knife. Doomed is your soul, damned is your life!

        Comment


          #5
          Most of the pictures are not showing for me.
          Lee
          Iowa
          2022 R1250RS White Sport

          Comment


            #6
            Weird... I see all the pictures on my Mac. Will have to see what I did wrong & fix it.
            "Everybody knows you never go full retard". - Kirk Lazarus

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Lee View Post
              Most of the pictures are not showing for me.
              Part two pics not showing.

              Great report !!! ??

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for the great write up!!
                2022 R1250GS Rallye
                2023 S1000XR

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by McFly View Post
                  ... Even though my trip was kind of a whirlwind tour, I had fun, got to spend time on the GS, soaked up some Texas history & saw some cool sites. I have to admit, the GS is much more fun to ride than I expected...
                  Excellent write-up! We need to get back to Texas !!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Great stuff Curt , as always !
                    Thanks for taking us along ...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Great report and pics, thanks for sharing.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Dancing always leads up to no good..... Great write up as usual and the bike looks good!! I really like to hear about the Texas history.
                        ain't skeered

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Part 2 pics showing now. Thanks.
                          Chattanooga, TN
                          Certified Hooligan.
                          2018 S1000XR, 2014 R1200GSAw, 2015 Husqvarna FE501S

                          Comment


                            #14

                            Comment


                              #15
                              That corn bread looks delicious.
                              2023 Honda CB500X

                              2017 Honda CRF250 L ABS

                              "Where you stand depends on where you sit"
                              Rufus E Miles JR.

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