Thank you. Have a few more to post before I get back on the ferry and head back to Belfast. Here's another video from Thurso. https://youtube.com/shorts/uJ-xseN7i...g7Aq3rEGGwjYTw
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Nancy's Live and Enjoy Life Tour
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I usually wake up very early—around 3 AM. This morning, I decided to listen to one of my favorite radio shows from back home. After a shower, I went downstairs for breakfast. Some of the other guests were already there. Lisa had marked each table with a painted stone showing the room number and name—just like the names on the doors of each room.
Lisa also brought me my folded laundry, and I paid her ÂŁ15 (she only wanted ÂŁ10, but I thought she earned a bit extra). My plan was to leave around 10, so I took another walk to the cliff that overlooked the beach, then down to the beach itself, where a few people were out walking and playing catch with their dogs.
Back at the inn, I repacked the motorcycle and suited up in all my riding gear. I forgot to mention earlier—I've been using a Garmin InReach tracking device. It sends a message to friends when I start and finish a ride and tracks my route here: https://live.garmin.com/Riverfurm. It also has an SOS feature if I get into trouble. It works off both cell and satellite signals—seemed like a good idea to have along.
The ride itself was pure enjoyment. No error messages on the dash this time. The route took me along narrow two-lane roads and some single-lane stretches hugging the coastline, with big elevation changes. These roads feel like they were made for motorcycle riding—up, down, tight corners, long sweepers. I’m not sure what I enjoyed more—the roads or the scenery.
At one point, I pulled into a dirt parking lot filled with bikes and cars. On the hill above was a zipline that stretched out over part of the North Sea. I hung around watching for a bit and got talking with three other riders who were also heading to the Royal Hotel. One of them noticed the Irish license plate on the GS and asked, “You from Ireland?”
Me: “Yes.”
Him: “What part?”
Me: “Pennsylvania.”
He gave me a confused look until I explained I was on a rental from Ireland. He said he figured something was up because of my accent—or lack of one.
They left before I did, but I caught up with them on the road and eventually passed them. I got to the Royal Hotel in Ullapool just before check-in. A few other riders were waiting for their rooms, but I got mine right away. I unpacked the GS and even scored a great parking spot right in front of the hotel. Gear off, Garmin shut down.
A couple of hours later, I had dinner at the hotel. It was a great ride—and tomorrow, it’s on to the Isle of Skye.
The zip line across the North Sea.
More Zip line.
I stopped here for lunch. I learned more about the NC 500. It is a 500 mile loop of towns in the North Country, that many campers do. I bought the shirt.
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Some days on the road, things don’t go as planned—but somehow, they end up better because of it.
I started the morning with my usual routine. Up early, waited for breakfast, ate, and got geared up. By 9:30 a.m., I was rolling out of Ullapool, aiming for a hotel somewhere near Glencoe—or was it Glencoonon? Honestly, I can’t remember the name exactly, and it turns out, neither could my GPS. It led me to a Royal Hotel… just not the Royal Hotel I had booked.
After some confusion, I checked my itinerary and saw I was 25 miles off. Not a disaster, but enough to remind me how much I rely on that little screen. I punched in the correct address and rode another 45 minutes to my actual hotel. Lucky for me, the road getting there was a beautiful one.
The hotel itself was great—comfortable room and an inviting bar/dining area. Only one other person was there when I walked in. He was digging into a plate of fish and chips that looked too good to pass up. I ordered a Guinness and a local whisky first—both were excellent—then followed his lead and ordered the fish and chips. It was gigantic. The kind of meal you need a full day of riding to deserve.
As the evening rolled in, more guests came down for drinks. It must’ve been happy hour—pints in hand, they wandered outside and perched on a stone wall by the road, chatting and soaking in the view. No rush. No noise. Just the easy hum of contentment. It was the kind of moment you can’t schedule—only stumble into.
I recorded a short video interview with Jenna, capturing a bit of the atmosphere and my thoughts. I truly love this part of the world. The people are kind, the pace is slower, and the motorcycle roads are nothing short of fantastic. Nancy would have loved this place—these quiet moments, the winding roads, and the people who greet you like you’ve been here before.
https://youtube.com/shorts/2cUNcIUiG...4nQ3nEx3-_joHp
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Awesome experience! Glencoe is a truly magical place that everyone should visit in a leisurely manner. If I ever get a chance to go back I'll want to stay nearby in Fort William and spend more time there and on Skye.
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We walked to a bar for a drink one night at 11pm and it was still light. I had a Guinness and Tanya wanted a scotch and coke. So I delicately asked the bartender if that was OK, and he reached under the bar and pulled out a bottle and said "this is the only whiskey I will mix with Coke, you can't have any off these shelves" as he swept his arm behind him. So she drank the under the counter whiskey, and I made love to my Guinness
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One of the small hotels I stayed at had a whiskey sample bar. So I poured a double. I don't know what it was but it was strong. I could not finish it. Yes Wes it was a very cool place. The people are great.
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Isle of Skye to Oban – Goat Paths and Good Scotch
“Nancy’s Live and Enjoy Life Motorcycle Tour”
After a morning shower and breakfast, I packed up the BMW GS and rolled out for the day’s ride from the Isle of Skye to Oban. The roads in this part of the Highlands aren’t built for speed — mostly narrow two-lane and single-track roads winding through remote and rugged terrain.
A few miles in, the GPS took me onto what I’d generously call a single-track road, but in reality, it felt more like a goat path — barely paved in spots, steep climbs, and hairpin turns that made second gear the gear of the day. Occasionally I’d make it into third, but not often.
The whole time I kept hoping no one would be coming the other way. Passing would’ve been... complicated. I did encounter two vehicles, but luckily there was just enough room to squeeze by. It was a challenging stretch — twenty-some miles of rough, narrow riding — but honestly, I loved it. That’s what this bike is made for, and Nancy would’ve gotten a laugh out of the adventure.
Eventually, I made it back to a proper two-lane road and rolled into Oban, a charming seaside town that leans a little touristy — but in a good way. It even has its own distillery. I checked into the Oban Bay Hotel, got settled, and wandered through town a bit.
https://youtube.com/shorts/_Q8zkb1LhR4?feature=share
I was tired from the day’s ride, so I didn’t explore as much as I wanted. Found a place to grab a bite, sat near the water, and soaked in the view. I could’ve easily spent another day here.
This was a phone in my room that was still in use.
Tomorrow, I ride to Ayr.Last edited by Riverfurm; 08-05-2025, 09:41 AM.
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Last Full Day in Scotland
This was my last full day in Scotland, and I wish it wasn’t. The ride today wasn’t anything to brag about—some highway, mostly secondary roads. The sky stayed cloudy all day and looked like it could rain at any time, but I made it to the hotel without getting wet.
The Western Hotel is a big place right next to a horse track. I checked in around three. My room smelled like fresh paint, so I opened all the windows. That’s when the rain started.
I went down to the bar for one beer, then about an hour and a half later headed down for dinner. One of the dining rooms was closed for a wedding the next day, so I ate alone in the empty dining room. Dinner was a Haggis Meat Pie, and it was actually pretty good.
Before calling it a night, I moved the motorcycle next to the building by the check-in desk so they could keep an eye on it from the window. Tomorrow will be a long day, so I turned in early.
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Final Day – Scotland to Northern Ireland, Then Home
Up early and down for breakfast, but the dining room was packed with tourists from two buses. I grabbed eggs and pancakes and took them to the empty dining room to eat in peace.
Today was just a few hours’ ride to the ferry port for my return to Belfast, Northern Ireland. It had rained overnight and was misting when I left, but I didn’t bother with the rain gear—my jacket is “kind of” waterproof. The ride wasn’t bad, taking about fifteen minutes to get out of Ayr, then mostly secondary roads along the shoreline.
I arrived at the port about an hour early. There was one motorcycle ahead of me—a Harley, which you don’t see often here. About half an hour later, more Harleys rolled in. Turned out they were Hells Angels. I guess they’re everywhere.
The waiting area was full of Asian tourists wandering around, and a few were fascinated by the motorcycles. A couple asked if they could take my picture. I said yes, and posed with the woman, then the man.
Loading onto the ferry was the same as before—motorcycles first. They strapped mine down using a rack, a ratchet strap, and a piece of foam. I noted my parking spot and went up to the fourth deck, finding a table up front with a long bench seat where I could stretch out. I put some of my gear on the table to claim the spot and went to get food. When I came back, an older German couple had taken the table. I moved my stuff and sat down between them with my tray. They didn’t say a word, but there went my chance for a nap.
The ferry docked in Belfast and I was back on the road—mostly highway, with light rain off and on. My ride was about 200 miles. I didn’t put my rain gear on, even when the showers turned heavy. By the time I reached Celtic Riders a few hours later, I was soaked.
Once there, it was time to unpack and repack my gear for the flight. My checked bag had to stay under 50 pounds, so it took a bit of rearranging. My carry-on? I wasn’t worried about weight.
A taxi ride to Dublin took almost an hour. I checked into an airport hotel late. The meal I’d had on the ferry was enough, so I skipped dinner and went straight to bed—up again at 3 a.m. for my flight home.
At the airport, the app wouldn’t let me check in, so I was at the American Airlines desk before 6 a.m. I didn’t realize Dublin has U.S. Customs and Immigration right there in the airport. The process took a while, and I even got pulled out of line for a body search.
The flight left on time—six hours back to Philly. My neighbor Robbin picked me up, and before long I was back on I-95 with all the crazy drivers.
It was a great trip. I loved both Scotland and the Isle of Man—two very different places, but each amazing in its own way. Along the way, I met many people, some carrying their own grief. I cried more than once. I scattered Nancy’s ashes in beautiful spots across both countries. She loved adventure. We had traveled to so many places together. Before she passed, she told me she had lived a good life, and she left me with these words: “Live and enjoy life.”
I’m so sorry she couldn’t join me in person on this ride, but I know she was with me in spirit—and in ashes. She’s still an adventurer. This trip made me feel a little lighter inside, and I thank her for that. Nancy, you are my wife, and I will love you forever. I will try to live and enjoy life, even when it’s difficult.
So… what’s next? I’ve been thinking about Spain—I’ve heard the riding is incredible there. But Paul from Celtic Rider wants me to come back and do a full ride in Ireland, since I only did a short one before. So, I booked the Wild Atlantic Tour for May. I’ll be riding solo. I like it that way.
I hope to see my friends from IBMW-Riderspace soon. Thank you to everyone who followed my posts—yes, even if it took me a few months to get them all written.
— Furman
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