Speaking of Australia.....
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Rainy Day Gear....
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Positioning the saddle to reduce pudendal nerve damage.
Lowering the saddle can sometimes reduce pudendal nerve compression by reducing hip rocking and excessive pressure, but if set too low, it can actually increase weight on the perineum. Key adjustments include tilting the saddle nose down 2–5 degrees, using a split-nose or cutout saddle, and standing periodically.
How to Adjust Saddle Height to Reduce Pressure- Avoid Excessive Height: A saddle that is too high causes the hips to rock, causing friction and increased perineal pressure.
- Avoid Excessive Low Height: Conversely, if the saddle is too low, it can cause the rider to sit too heavily on the saddle, increasing pressure.
- Optimal Setting: The correct height should allow for a slight bend in the knee at the bottom of the pedal stroke, keeping the pelvis stable.
- Note that having the saddle on the low side is better than it being on the high side if you are off a bit.
- Saddle Tilt: A 2–5° downward nose-down position can dramatically reduce pressure on the perineum. Specialized recommends measuring along the front third of the saddle for both flat and curved/wave saddle types. Note that just tilting the saddle will raise the aft part of the saddle such that the seat post may have to be lowered.
- Saddle Type: Use a shorter-nose saddle with a central relief channel or cut-out to prevent the seat from digging into soft tissue.
- Positioning: Adjust the saddle setback to ensure the sit bones (ischial tuberosities/sit bones) are carrying the weight and there is no pressure on the perineum.
- Active Riding: Stand on the pedals every 10–15 minutes to allow blood flow to return to the area.
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Bears I have adductor pulls. I'm off the bike (pedal bikes) for maybe two more months! Don't know whether I did it snow skiing in mid-January, or doing sprints and playing soccer shortly thereafter. In any event, laying off running and cycling is much harder than actually doing it!Comment
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Sorry to hear that. I've just started back after a one month hiatus due to several issues occuring when I was riding in Florida. My rides are limited to 10 miles or less and less hill climbs. -
OTOH, one of my brothers competes in cross county sking and is sidelined for a total of 8 months. He competed in the Minneapolis Birkie in February. There were icy conditions and he crashed breaking 6 ribs and tearing a rotator cuff. The ribs are healing on their own. But he had shoulder surgery this week and will be doing rehab for another 6 months.
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Holding your head/neck in line with your spine, rather than down like a Hound Dog, moves the head away from the handlebars. Besides increasing the field of vision, the upper body center of gravity is shifted towards the saddle resulting in less weight on the hands and the head feels less heavy. This weight shift is better appreciated on a stationary bike and is especially true for drop handlebars. To get your head up and provide more upper torso suspension, bend your elbows more.
NOTE: If you find your posture is bent over, especially as you age, using the "head/neck in line with your spine" technique will help to straighten it up. Another exercise that is helpful for posture is the "Farmer's Carry" with a light set of dumbbells.Last edited by wildbears; 05-01-2026, 06:55 AM.
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How Cobbles Cause Flats (Or What The Heck Was Happening At Paris-Roubaix):
Cobbles (pave) cause flats primarily through high-impact "pinch flats" (snakebites), where the tire compresses completely, forcing the tube against the rim edge and cutting it. The violent vibrations, sharp edges of uneven stones, and trapped debris (like flint) between stones also cause punctures and tire damage, intensified by high speed and high tire pressure.- Pinch Flats (Snakebites): The most common cause. Sharp impacts from hitting gaps or edges at speed compress the tire, pinching the inner tube against the wheel rim, resulting in two small holes.
- Sharp Debris & Punctures: Cobbles often have sharp gaps or broken edges. Debris such as sharp flint, metal shards, or glass can get wedged in the stones or washed onto the road, easily cutting through tires.
- Sharp Edges: Irregular, high-impact hits against sharp-edged stones can cut the tire casing or cause immediate punctures.
- Intense Vibration & Component Wear: Extreme vibrations can cause tires to wear faster, and even cause premature wear on rims, leading to mechanical failures that can mimic a flat.
- High Pressure: Running too high pressure on cobbles prevents the tire from absorbing impacts, making it bounce and increasing the severity of impacts that lead to flats.
- Lower Tire Pressure: Allows the tire to absorb shocks better.
- Wider Tires: Provide more volume to prevent the tire from bottoming out.
- Speed Management: Easing up, rather than accelerating, reduces the violence of impacts.
- Proper Technique: Holding a "relaxed" grip and allowing the bike to move underneath helps avoid jarring impacts.
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Stance Width and Cleat Adjustment
Too narrow a stance width, especially in cycling, can cause significant metatarsal pain (metatarsalgia) and forefoot edema by creating excessive compression on the outer (5th) metatarsal head. Adjusting stance width to match pelvic width, increasing shoe width, and optimizing cleat positioning helps reduce pressure, alleviate burning sensations, and improve comfort.
Stance Width and Foot Pain Connection- Cycling: A stance that is too narrow forces the outer edge of the foot to take excessive load, causing pain. Widening the pedal stance (e.g., using pedal extenders) can mitigate this.
- Walking/Running: Improper shoe width, particularly shoes that are too narrow, causes similar metatarsal compression, leading to inflammation and sharp pain, often described as a burning sensation or walking on a pebble.
Metatarsal Pain (Metatarsalgia) Factors- Symptoms: Burning, stinging, or aching pain in the ball of the foot that worsens with activity.
- Causes: High-pressure loading, improper footwear, tight calf muscles, or foot deformities.
- Remedies: Switching to shoes with a wider toe box, using specialized insoles/orthotics to support the arch, and widening the stance/foot placement.
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The top 20 most dangerous counties for cyclists in America, 14 are in Florida.
Rank County State Cyclist deaths Population Cyclist deaths per 100k people 1 Pasco Florida 40 561,897 7.12 2 Sarasota Florida 24 434,005 5.53 3 Manatee Florida 21 399,705 5.25 4 East Baton Rouge Louisiana 23 456,781 5.04 5 Pinellas Florida 48 959,103 5.00 6 Orleans Louisiana 19 383,998 4.95 7 Volusia Florida 27 553,561 4.88 8 San Joaquin California 37 779,227 4.75 9 Marion Florida 17 375,906 4.52 10 Hillsborough Florida 66 1,459,773 4.52 11 Charleston South Carolina 18 408,317 4.41 12 Duval Florida 41 995,560 4.12 13 Lee Florida 29 760,820 3.81 14 Brevard Florida 23 606,603 3.79 15 Stanislaus California 20 552,880 3.62 16 Osceola Florida 14 388,664 3.60 17 Broward Florida 67 1,944,376 3.45 18 Polk Florida 24 725,041 3.31 19 Brazoria Texas 12 372,040 3.23 20 Collier Florida 12 375,760 3.19 Comment
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Loose B-Screw
The causes the rear derailleur to rattle and suggests that the "trim" is off. It has happened several times on my 105 R7100 group set.
A rear derailleur B-screw loosening on its own is typically caused by vibrations overcoming the light spring tension, a damaged or worn screw thread, or the screw not resting securely against the hanger tab. Apply a small amount of low-strength Loctite 222 (purple) to the threads to secure it while still allowing future adjustments.
Common Reasons and Fixes- Vibration/Lack of Thread Friction: Use Loctite 222 (purple), nail polish, or light super glue on the threads.
- Worn Threads/Hanger Tab: If the hole is stripped or the derailleur hanger tab is damaged, the screw won't hold. A new derailleur hanger may be required.
- Wrong Position: Ensure the screw is resting properly on the tab of the derailleur hanger.
- Chain Length: If the chain is too long, the derailleur cage can sit in a position that reduces tension on the B-screw.
If you are adjusting your derailleur B screw, it is recommended to adjust the B screw while holding the derailleur body back to reduce tension on the screw.
The B-screw acts as a solid limit screw, designed to be adjusted against the derailleur hanger tab to set the gap between the upper pulley wheel and the cassette.- Function: It adjusts the B-gap/tension, allowing the derailleur to clear the largest cog.
- Design: On the R7100, it is a simple, direct-contact screw rather than a spring-loaded tensioning screw, as modern Shimano derailleurs utilize a different design to handle wider gear ranges.
Last edited by wildbears; 05-02-2026, 01:03 PM.Comment
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