The Bicycling Thread

[wildbears]

Loose B-Screw

The causes the rear derailleur to rattle and suggests that the "trim" is off. It has happened several times on my 105 R7100 group set.

A rear derailleur B-screw loosening on its own is typically caused by vibrations overcoming the light spring tension, a damaged or worn screw thread, or the screw not resting securely against the hanger tab. Apply a small amount of low-strength Loctite 222 (purple) to the threads to secure it while still allowing future adjustments.

Common Reasons and Fixes

• Vibration/Lack of Thread Friction: Use Loctite 222 (purple), nail polish, or light super glue on the threads.
• Worn Threads/Hanger Tab: If the hole is stripped or the derailleur hanger tab is damaged, the screw won't hold. A new derailleur hanger may be required.
• Wrong Position: Ensure the screw is resting properly on the tab of the derailleur hanger.
• Chain Length: If the chain is too long, the derailleur cage can sit in a position that reduces tension on the B-screw.

If you are adjusting your derailleur B screw, it is recommended to adjust the B screw while holding the derailleur body back to reduce tension on the screw.

The B-screw acts as a solid limit screw, designed to be adjusted against the derailleur hanger tab to set the gap between the upper pulley wheel and the cassette.

• Function: It adjusts the B-gap/tension, allowing the derailleur to clear the largest cog.
• Design: On the R7100, it is a simple, direct-contact screw rather than a spring-loaded tensioning screw, as modern Shimano derailleurs utilize a different design to handle wider gear ranges.

[wildbears]

[wildbears]

Obesity and PGAD:

Obesity is associated with the stretching and relaxation of the perineum, a condition often called perineal descent or bulging. The excess weight causes chronic, increased pressure on the pelvic floor muscles, which can damage the tissues and cause the pelvic area to sag or drop. This can result in increased irritation of the perineal nerves by the saddle. Besides weight loss, there are a number of ergonomic bicycle adjustments that can help

[wildbears]

The Worst Times to Ride a Bicycle and Maybe a Motorcycle....

The worst time of day to ride a bicycle is generally during weekday afternoon rush hour (roughly 5:00 PM to 7:00 PM), which is statistically the most dangerous due to high traffic volume, stressed drivers, and poor visibility. Early morning commuting hours (7:00 AM to 9:00 AM) and midnight to early morning hours are also hazardous due to impaired drivers. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Worst Times and Reasons

• Weekday Afternoon Rush Hour (3:00 PM – 7:00 PM): This is the peak time for accidents, with one study finding the highest fatalities between 3-6 PM. Drivers are often tired, stressed, and in a hurry.
• Nighttime (6:00 PM – 6:00 AM): Nearly one-third of fatal bicycle crashes with motor vehicles occur at night due to poor visibility, even with lights.
• Dusk/Dawn: Known as a high-risk time because of rapidly changing light conditions, making it hard for drivers to see cyclists, especially when drivers forget to turn on their headlights.
• Mid-Day in Summer: While traffic may be lighter than rush hour, this is when temperatures are highest, creating risks of overheating and, in urban areas, poor air quality. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Key Safety Precautions

• If you must ride at these times, ensure you are visible by using bright lights and wearing reflective gear. [1]
• Avoid: Friday afternoons (high congestion/impaired driving).
• Alternative: Weekend mornings (6 AM–Noon) are considered some of the safest times. [1, 2]

[wildbears]

40/50 PSI

Now using 40/50 psi on my Trek 970.
There is a significant improvement in comfort, compared to 45/55 psi, without a perceptible decrease in performance.
Less vibration on coarse asphalt and less jolting over seams and cracks.
28c Continental Grand Prix 5000, Bontrager Paradigm 19.5mm internal width rim brake wheels, total bike + rider weight = 190 lbs.
Tire squish remains less than 15% (see Berto https://www.google.com/search?q=bert...t=gws-wiz-serp ).

[wildbears]

Giro d’Italia 2026 Stage 5 Extended Highlights 🔥🏁 | Mountain Stage Chaotic Race Finish:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-U4083PinI

[wildbears]

Carbon Fiber vs Steel Forks....What They Don't Tell You.

Carbon Fiber is generally better for damping high-frequency "road buzz" and small bumps, while Steel excels at absorbing larger, low-frequency impacts. Carbon fiber can be specifically engineered to flex for compliance while remaining stiff for handling.

How They Compare

• Carbon Fiber:
  • Vibration Damping: Superior at filtering out high-frequency road chatter. The material properties naturally dissipate micro-vibrations, preventing them from traveling to your hands and causing fatigue.
  • Customizable Feel: Engineers can tune the carbon layup to be stiff laterally for precise steering while remaining compliant vertically to absorb shocks.
  • Weight: Significantly lighter than steel, which reduces the overall weight of the bike's front end.
• Steel:
  • Vibration Damping: Known for a "springy" and smooth ride. Steel forks (especially those with a traditional curved rake) flex to absorb larger hits, giving them excellent shock absorption.
  • Durability: Offers high impact resistance and will bend rather than catastrophically fail under extreme stress.
  • Utility: Highly favored for touring, bikepacking, and commuting because they can easily be built with brazed eyelets, mounts, and racks.

Which Should You Choose? The best material depends on your specific riding style and the terrain in Lancaster:

• Choose carbon fiber if your primary goal is smoothing out rough pavement, reducing hand numbness on long road rides, or building a lightweight, fast-handling bike.
• Choose steel if you prioritize robust durability, need mounting points for racks/fenders, or prefer the traditional "plush" feel of a metallic fork.

If you are upgrading or replacing a fork, comparing rider opinions and reviews on community platforms like Bike Forums or Reddit can offer great real-world insight into how each material feels on the road. For a more technical deep-dive into how these choices affect geometry and handling, the Ritchey Guide to Gravel Bike Forks is an excellent resource.

[wildbears]

Arnold...

[wildbears]

Guess Who??? Bike Make???

[wildbears]

Wife: Do these jeans make my butt look fat?

Husband: Do you promise not to get mad no matter what I say?

Wife: Sure.

Husband: I just bought another bike.

[wildbears]

Too many gears?

Double chain rings and a 13 speed cassette add up to 26 different gear ratios.

However, due to the close spacing of the gears, you need to shift 2 to 4 gears or more when changing gears as required for terrain and speed.

Not suggesting that we return to the old 3 speed internal hubs, but those seem to work just fine for recreational riding.

Maybe we're heading towards a continuously variable drive train that responds to the amount of pedal input so no shifting input is required.

[wildbears]

Today is World Bicycle Day
World Bicycle Day is celebrated annually on June 3rd. Proclaimed by the United Nations in 2018, the international observance highlights the bicycle's longevity, versatility, and unique role as a simple, affordable, and environmentally clean mode of transport.

[wildbears]

Lake Apopka Bike Trail....Or Alligator Alley.

https://www.facebook.com/10001424274...97869616512661

[wildbears]

Video History of the Bicycle....

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/FgiaphQPDqs

[wildbears]

Heavier Riders and Tire Width

AI Overview
Heavier riders generally benefit from wider bike tires. Wider tires increase air volume, allowing you to support higher weights comfortably without resorting to dangerously high air pressures or risking pinch flats (when the inner tube gets crushed between the rim and the road). [1, 2, 3]
Key Benefits for Heavier Riders

• Fewer Pinch Flats: More volume means the tire won't bottom out as easily when hitting bumps or potholes.
• Better Comfort & Compliance: Wider tires can be run at lower pressures, which softens the ride and absorbs road vibrations to reduce fatigue.
• Improved Traction: A larger contact patch with the ground provides better cornering grip and braking stability. [1, 2, 3]

Recommended Widths by Riding Style

• Road Bikes: Avoid traditional 23mm or 25mm tires. Look for 28mm to 32mm (or up to 35mm if your frame allows) to handle the extra load without harshness. [1, 2, 3, 4]
• Gravel & Commuter Bikes: Opt for 38mm to 45mm. The extra volume acts like micro-suspension for rough roads or city streets. [1, 2, 3]
• Mountain Bikes: Standardize with wider options like 2.4” to 2.6” (or even fat tire 4.0"+ for sand and snow) to handle trail impacts without buckling. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

Important Rule of Thumb
Heavier riders do not necessarily need to inflate tires to maximum pressure. Instead, aim for the sweet spot where the tire supports your weight but still has a slight amount of "give" to absorb impacts. You can find optimal targets using the SRAM Tire Pressure Guide or the Silca Professional Tire Pressure Calculator.
Attachments area
Preview YouTube video I Love My Fat (Tyre) Road Bike - But Is It The Future?Preview YouTube video I Love My Fat (Tyre) Road Bike - But Is It The Future?


Preview YouTube video Are Wider Tyres REALLY Better?Preview YouTube video Are Wider Tyres REALLY Better?