Went for my first outdoors gravel ride this year on Saturday. A bit windy, but the roads were only slightly wet and muddy. 25 miles at a sedate pace with three of my women friend riders. (Only one can kick my ass, but she can do it so very easily it's amazing.) She's 50 and recently did Ride the Divide from Lake Louise to Coyote Wells, NM.
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The Bicycling Thread
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WIDER TYRES AND LOWER PRESSURE MAKE YOU FASTER...
https://www.cyclist.co.uk/in-depth/8...ake-you-faster
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They make you faster . . . up to a point. I have watched this development closely for several years. I started racing in the 70's on 21mm's with many others racing on 19mm's!!!! Pressures in those days was 130 psi (and above, if the rims could handle it).
Last year, I went to 25's from 23's. Continental GP's. I have lowered pressures to right at 100, down from 120 or so. Once in a while, I will ride with the pressure at 90ish.
but I weigh 205lbs and pinch flats are more than just a theory! Feels slower, but I suspect that is because I'm used to a harsh ride indicating speed. Certainly, the ride is better. 28mm's won't work well with my set up because of the wheels and the clearances on the chain stay.
Enough - - - I'm headed out on the Bianchi gravel bike before the rain moves in.Last edited by 955i; 03-17-2021, 04:30 PM.
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My Campy Record equipped Trek 970 frame wont handle 28s due to lack of vertical clearance.
I got around that by using 25s on 21-mm-outside/19-mm-inside rims. The rim brakes are set at almost maximum opening to allow wheel/tire insertion-removal. (Not needed with my Shimano Ultegras) This setup leaves the minimum of 3 mm of frame clearance between the tires and the frame.
The 25s on the 21 mm rims allow for more air volume, lower tire pressures, an actual tire diameter/width of 28 mm, and theoretically less rolling resistance.
I have not determined the most effective tire pressure for speed vs comfort yet.
And I haven't developed pinch flats/snake-bites yet even riding at 50 psi even though the rims will bottom out over sharp impacts at this pressure.
I'm currently running 90 psi for smooth pavement.
Maybe will drop that to 80 psi for rough.
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My 2016 road bike came with 700x25 tires and similar models a year or two latter came with 700x32.
This winter when I replaced tires I used 700x28. This looks like the max size I can use. I don't think I have vertical clearance to the brake bridge for 700x32.
I have not been out on this bike this spring. On the 700x25 I used 115 PSI. I'll try 100 PSI with the new tires.
I still have 700x23 tires on my 2000 rode bike because I like the classic look.Lee
Iowa
2022 R1250RS White Sport
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The bicycle my wife ordered came in and we took it to a local cyclery to be put together.
I told her I dunno nothin aboot pedal bikes. She is pushin for me to get one.
Why cant she ride one of my twisty go fast bikes?Chattanooga, TN
Certified Hooligan.
2018 S1000XR, 2014 R1200GSAw, 2015 Husqvarna FE501S
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I really like my Brooks for daily riding. However, the front of the pommel is too hard for my personal aero position if I want to stay low in the drops for very long.
I rode it on a 40-mile ride the day I installed it out of the box. No problems at all. The only thing I noticed as it "broke in" is that I had to adjust the tensioner a few times.
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9951, I've noticed that also.
Right now I'm trying to adjust the seat attitude for a balance between upright and crouched.
Too steep and you slide forward.
Too shallow and you have to worry about never damage (of the worst kind).
It may not work out.
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I got the wrong idea about this thread, I mistakenly thought that it was about cyclists.
Last edited by MattB; 04-20-2021, 08:35 AM.Matt
Street: 2011 Ducati Multistrada S :: 2000 Honda VFR @ 39k :: 2002 BMW K1200RS @ 13k ... round 3
Track: 2008 Suzuki GSX-R 750 :: 2008 Honda CBR1000RR
Dirt: Honda CRF450X
IBA #25520 - Iron Butting the Blue Ridge Parkway
If loud pipes save lives, imagine what learning to ride that thing could do.
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My dad had a previous coworker and friend who moved to Minnesota.
This guy was really into cycling and even built his own outdoor velodrome.
Very steep cross slope all the way around.
He had a poster in his workshop that I still remember.
About 50 naked French women in a group and on bicycles.
😁Last edited by wildbears; 04-20-2021, 10:28 AM.
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27 years ago, yes 27 we both bought two matching bikes called Shogun Trail Rider MTB bikes. Were the pride in its day! We kept em all this time.
Today my bike returned from the cyclery all checked out with new tires and tubes. Got me a Giro MTB helmet and their gloves as well.
Beginning of a new adventure.Chattanooga, TN
Certified Hooligan.
2018 S1000XR, 2014 R1200GSAw, 2015 Husqvarna FE501S
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2018 BMW S1000R
2017 Honda CRF250 L ABS
"Where you stand depends on where you sit"
Rufus E Miles JR.
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Was riding the East Central Rail Trail this winter. Goes from Edge Water south to Titusville. About half way down it splits off and goes over to the two springs in DeBary. Much of the trail goes through wetlands replete with gators, herons, egrets, and turtles. A lot of the DeBary section is along busy streets as a wide sidewalk.
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SIZE VARIATION WHEN BUYING BICYCLING SHOES
The shoes sizes can vary greatly between brands and even models within the same brand.
For example, a Giro size 46 EU / 12 US is smaller than a Bontrager size 45 EU / 12 US.
And a Look size 45 EU is only slightly larger than a Bontrager size 44 / 11 US.
NOTE: The Look brand shoe is no longer available. However Look cleats and pedals still are.
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BEST INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO FOR SETTING UP THE CLEATS ON CYCLING SHOES
Video: How to set up cleats on cycling shoes: https://www.cyclingweekly.com/fitnes...orrectly-23575
TIP: You may find it helpful to note your foot positions when riding with street shoes on "rat-trap" pedals. Your feet will be unrestricted and move to your natural riding positions.*
*To position the cleats using this method rather than the one in the video:
1. Measure from the medial malleolus to the crank arm when this bone is closest to it (crank arms near horizontal).
2. Feel thru the street shoes and mark a piece of tape on the outside of the shoes at the following points.
a. The fore-aft mid point of the 1st MP joint.
b. The medial aspect of this joint at the same fore-aft location.
3. Measure the distance, using these marks, of the 1st MP joint from the pedal axle and from the crank arm.
4. Do steps 2a and 2b with your cycling shoes on.
5. Use the previous measurements to set the fore-aft, 1st MP joint to crank arm and pedal axle, and medial malleolus to crank axle distances. This can be done with the cycling shoes attached by the cleats to the pedals while either on or off of your feet.
This will set the correct foot angles, lateral positions of the feet, and fore-aft positions of the feet.
Note that the right pedal may be farther away from the center-line of the frame than the left. The right crank sticks out more than the left due to the space needed for the chain-rings on most bikes. You might need to compensate for this, if there is a significant difference, by moving the left shoe cleat inward more than the right.
My San Rencho with vintage Shimano Ultegra is only 1/16 inch further out on the right side than the left. The right crank arm bends prominently inward.
The Trek 970, with vintage Campy Record, has a difference of 5/32 inch and has a subtle bend inward of the right crank.
Could significant differences result in an unbalanced pedaling effort, back strain, etc.???
One other Note: Be sure to adjust your seat position (height/fore-aft) to compensate for changes in your feet positions. For example, if the cleats are moved back on the shoes, the saddle may also need to be moved back to maintain the same riding position.Last edited by wildbears; 05-16-2021, 03:49 PM.
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Rear Derailleur Converter Tail Hook Extender Lengthen Lug (CONTINUED)
The one issue that this might not overcome is Chain Wrap (CW) limitation (maximum).
(*Note that this issue can be overcome by not using extreme cross gearing such as the large chain ring with the larger freewheel cogs and the small chain ring with the smaller (lesser toothed) cogs. However, if you accidentally do so, damage to the drive train and perhaps to the rider may occur.)
My short cage Campy has a CW of 27. And if I want to add a 12-32t freewheel cassette....
53 - 42 = 11; 32 - 12 = 20; and 11 + 20 = 31.
I can decrease CW by limiting the rear derailleur to the 15-32 sprocket cogs (6 cogs rather than 8) giving a CW of 27 (53 - 42 = 11; 32 - 15 = 17; 11 + 17= 28).
This results in a 6 speed cassette since the 12t and 13t cogs can't be used.
Not a problem for me as I'm only on the 12t and 13t cogs when going downhill, even with the 42t chain ring.
I can also just not use extreme cross-gearing. (See above.*)
In addition, my chain length is longer than specs with an extra 1 inch to allow use of a 42 x 12 cross gearing
This works for this extreme cross-gearing but makes for extra wear on the chain rings, especially when on the large chain ring and the larger freewheel cogs.
Here's a link to Campy rear derailleurs: https://branfordbike.com/rear-derail...%20tooth%20cog.
And here's a link to the Wolf Tooth Road Link installation (do the same for the cheap Walmart knockoff): https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...ducts/roadlink
Since I have an extra Shimano XTR rear derailleur, switching it for the Campy seems like the best course.
The XTR has a CW of 38 (the housing is actually stamped 38). So theoretically I could go up to a 11-38t freewheel sprocket (53-42=11; 38-11=27; CW = 38t).
HOWEVER...
The lowest gearing available for current EOM Shimano 8 speed freewheel cassettes is 11-34. You have to go to a 9 speed to get a 36t or higher.
ALSO HOWEVER...
The XTR medium cage has a 32t max freewheel cog size (also stamped on the housing).
In order to go to the 11-34, the rear derailleur extender would be required (which I currently have).
The Shimano and Campy rear derailleurs have different requirements for cable lengths and terminal cable housing lengths. Both being longer for the Shimano.
So I switched to the XTR medium cage rear derailleur and a 12-32t freewheel cassette.
I'll be riding level pavement for the next several months, so the 53-42t x 12-32t should be fine even with a good headwind.
To get lower gearing, a 13-34t would work: This would be custom built and require a rear derailleur extender to accommodate the larger 34t cog. And a 13t top gear with a built in spacer (required for the top cassette cog).Last edited by wildbears; 08-15-2022, 08:14 PM.
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